Put your smart TV, cameras and thermostat on their own Wi-Fi

Smart TVs, cameras and plugs are the least-updated computers in your home. Moving them to a separate Wi-Fi network takes about 30 minutes and keeps a hacked gadget away from your laptops, phones and files.

By John E. Phillips ·

By the end of this guide, your smart devices will still work from their apps, but a hacked camera or TV will no longer be able to reach your laptops, phones or shared files.

Who it's for

Households and home offices with a typical router or mesh Wi-Fi system, including the one your internet provider supplied. You need the router's admin login (usually in its app, or on a web page such as 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1; the address is often printed on a label on the router). Setting up the network takes about 30 minutes, plus a few minutes per device to reconnect it.

Why bother: smart devices often run old software that never gets updated, and many ship with weak defaults. On the same network as your laptop, a compromised device can scan for and attack everything else. On its own network, it can only reach the internet.

Steps

  1. List what you're moving

    Open your router's list of connected devices and write down everything that isn't a computer, phone or tablet: TVs, streaming sticks, cameras, doorbells, thermostats, smart plugs and bulbs, speakers, robot vacuums, appliances. Unrecognised names are usually one of these; the manufacturer shown next to them helps.

  2. Find your router's separate-network option

    Look in the router's app or admin page for one of these, best first:

    • An IoT or smart-home network: offered by several mesh systems and newer routers, built for exactly this.
    • A guest network: available on almost every router, and works well for this job.
    • A separate VLAN: on business-grade gear. Same idea, more control.

    If your router offers none of these, it's worth replacing: that usually also means it no longer gets security updates.

  3. Create the network, isolated from your main one

    Give it its own name (for example Home-Devices) and its own strong password, different from your main Wi-Fi. Then find the setting that controls access to your main network (it may be called "Allow guests to access local network", "Intranet access" or "Network isolation") and make sure guests cannot reach it.

    For security, choose WPA2/WPA3 (or WPA2-Personal if a device refuses to connect). Make sure the 2.4 GHz band is on: many smart devices can't use 5 GHz. Turn off any schedule or time limit that switches the guest network off, or your devices will drop offline.

  4. Move your devices across, one at a time

    Most devices change networks through their own app ("Wi-Fi settings" or "reconnect"). Some have to be reset and set up again from scratch. During setup, some apps need your phone on the same network as the device: join the new network on your phone for the setup, then switch back. Move one device, check it still works in its app, then move the next.

  5. Decide what to do about casting and printers

    Casting from your phone to a TV or speaker (Chromecast, AirPlay) and wireless printing only work when both ends are on the same network. You have three choices: move your phone to the device network when you want to cast; keep the printer on your main network (printers are a lower risk than cameras and TVs); or, on routers that support it, allow just those services across. Choose on purpose rather than finding out later.

  6. Change your main Wi-Fi password

    This catches anything you missed. After you change it, every device that wasn't moved falls off the main network. Reconnect only your own computers, phones and tablets, plus anything you deliberately kept there, such as the printer. Anything else that turns up offline belongs on the device network.

Check it worked

In the router's device list, your smart devices should now appear on the new network and your computers and phones on the main one. Then note a camera's or TV's IP address from that list and, from a laptop on your main Wi-Fi, try to reach it: open a terminal (on Windows, Command Prompt) and type ping followed by the address. With isolation working, you'll see "Request timed out" or no reply. Finally, open each device's app on your phone over mobile data: it should still work, because the app talks to the device through the manufacturer's service, not your home network.

Common mistakes

Want it done, or checked?

If your home has a lot of devices, a home office, or equipment you'd rather not experiment on, ISMC can set this up for you or review what you've done.

Request a consultation
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